Extreme wave statistics of surface elevation and velocity field of gravity waves over a two-dimensional bathymetry

This paper presents the effects of two-dimensional bathymetry on evolution skewness and kurtosis surface elevation velocity field in long-crested irregular waves propagating over a circular shoal submerged bar with semicircular step. For shoal, we show that has local maximum top shoal. We find horizontal similar behaviour to elevation, but two maxima at different locations lee side step, which acts converging lens, refraction contributes statistical properties deviate from Gaussian statistics.